Hello again everyone, or, both of you!
We are getting ready to pack up and head for Guaymas/San Carlos in November. We’ve collected lots of STUFF to feed the boat.
PLANS PLANS PLANS…
- NEW STANDING RIGGING – We are going synthetic!
- PAINT – We are having the bottom and freeboard re-painted by the yard in Guaymas at Marina Guaymas. Gabriel Larios has been communicating with us via emails very well! We commissioned the bottom and freeboard for $350 and $1500 (plus materials). I’ll let you know what the final invoice comes to…
- MAST – We will un-step the mast in order to silence the cable slapping we have (ENJOYED?) for the past nine years. Then re-step it with NEW STANDING RIGGING.
- ALTERNATOR – We have replaced a pulley on the spare alternator and secured a remote adjustable voltage regulator that will work on both the alternators (original and spare).
- Dingy Wheels for the new dinghy!
- Replacing the solar charger/controller “Battery tender” for the windless battery in the bow.
- Outboard hydrofoil stabilizer (since the test parts we made last spring worked so well) we decided to buy a real one!
Boat´s dry storage, work yard
(011) (52) 622 22 1 72 00
Synthetic standing rigging PLAN –
We have chosen 5/16″ dia. (Dynice Dux – Diameter : 8mm) from Jimmy Green Marine. 100 Meters (328 feet) ran us £ 594.95 ($760 USD) delivered, (£ 550 plus delivery). Design requirement was for 246 feet of line (includes splices, thimbles and turnbuckles).
Also decided to keep the turnbuckles in the standing rigging system so we had to come up with different top ends for the turnbuckles. Lots of choices!
I’ve drawn up the following rigging plan to make sure. We need to take everything we need for the job since it’s pretty hard to get STUFF for a sailing vessel in MX…
We chose 8mm: 5/16″ dia. 1×19 316 stainless wire has a breaking strength of approx. 6.8 ton. The 8mm Dynice Dux specs at 9.9 ton linear and 8.9 ton spliced. Strength should be no issue and we will take care of the creep and/or stretch with the planned attachment system.
For the attachment system, the big issue is can you live with JUST TURNBUCKLES, ours have about six inches adjustment in them, or do you need more adjustment to help you draw out any splice originated construction stretch you plan to have. We are thinking to get about 6 inches per end of construction stretch. So we added the 8 to 1 – 1/8 in. dia. dyneema line planning about 12 to 16 inches of take-up. (works like a 8 to 1 block and tackle… The 1/8 inch duneema is spec. at one ton breaking strength so it should take 8 ton in the configuration we designed.
So at the turnbuckle end, red in drawing below, the boat has 1/2″ and 5/8″ clevis pins attaching to the boat chain plates. We purchased 1/2″ and 5/8″ Left Hand threaded Toggles to allow us to wrap the 1/8″ dyneema around the upper Clevis pins.
The 1/8″ dia. dyneema (blue in drawing) will wrap over the 1/2 in. or 5/8 in. dia. clevis pin in the turnbuckle. Eight strands should hold 8 ton.
At the lower end of the stay a thimble is spliced to the Dynice Dux (white in drawing) and the 1/8 in. dia. line wraps through the heavy duty 316 stainless thimble. The 5/16 in. dia. Dynice Dux line is spliced around the 5/16 in. thimbles with a brummel splice and an approx. 70x bury.
Note in the “detail at upper thimble” see drawing below “upper thimble”, we found a spacer with 1″ OD and 1/2 or 5/8 ID 1/23 thick in 316 stainless that we can insert into the thimble at the upper end mast connection clevis pins. (it just felt like the right thing to do for $6 a piece for the spacers)… https://www.extsw.com/
And if we get all the construction stretch out of the system and eliminate the 1/8 dyneema from the system, we can pin the lower thimbles to the turnbuckles. So we purchased extra spacers for that end connection too.
Detail at lower turnbuckle:
Detail at lower thimble:
Detail at upper thimble:
We have collected all the parts: LH thread toggle turnbuckle ends ( we have RH in case we guessed wrong) thimbles, 5/16 Dynice Dux, 3mm dyneema, 1.5 mm dyneema, 1 in. dia. 1/2 inch thick spacers for the thimbles, chafe guard, and etc…
For RH toggles 1/2″ 4ea and 5/8″ 3ea 36+110+168=$314 USD
and LH (just in case toggles) 1/2″ 4ea and 5/8″ 3ea 95+175= $290 USD
8mm Dynice Dux $760 USD
3mm dyneema 238′ $71 USD
Dyneema 7/64 120′ $24 USD
Project total = $1459 (and maybe rebate on the $290 LH toggles) would NET= $1169 USD plus 16% MX tax ($169 USD) at the border…
All that’s left now is to go to the boat, drop the mast, measure the steel stays we are replacing, splice up the dynice dux stays and hang them on the mast ready for re-stepping.
We chose IMRON for freeboard painting… For primer we use International Intertuf 2 or 3 coats (sometimes more), and about paint 3 or 4 coats IMRON.
We chose Americoat ABC#3, probably blue or what ever color they come up with for bottom painting…
We pulled out the soft foam ties that were around the cables running from the cabin to the masthead back in 2010 when we re-worked the boat in Napa, CA. Oops! The cables have been slapping inside the mast ever since.
The plan is to put the cables into PE pipe insulation or use heavy duty wire ties in a constellation of 4 or 5 ties at 3 foot intervals (or so) along the length of the cables. The tails of the wire ties will stick out from the wire bundle like porcupine quills and hold the cable away from slapping the inside of the mast???? IT’S A PLAN!
We have two VHF and a 14×3 to mast head and one 14×2 to midmast…
After the “on the alternator” adjustable regulator we tried last spring concept seemed to work for us. We took the summer and put the correct pulley on the spare alternator and rigged up a remote mount adjustable regulator for ease of access for adjusting in the future (if necessary). We will mount the adjustable regulator where it can be accessed without stopping the engine and loosening the alternator to swing it into a place to access the adjustment screw.
This is not a perfect solution, it tends to reduce the charge current before you might want it reduced for the LiFePO4 batteries in our house system but seems to work for us since we get most of our battery charge from solar and not the alternator. We really just needed to limit the maximum charge voltage from the alternator on long motoring sessions.
Parts are from: https://www.240turbo.com/AdjustableVoltage.html
Davis Wheel-A-Weigh Standard Launching Wheels from Overton’s.
All kinds of work to do this season. Plans? Andrew Carmer and Jim are driving down to Guaymas around Nov. 10 and Jeana and Jessica are flying to Hermosillo in Sonora via Guadalajara in Jalisco on the 11th. We have a B&B for a week in San Carlos. The kids will return to USA after a week or so via Andrew’s car.
We are probably headed south out of Guaymas/San Carlos when we are ready and floating again. Hope to take only a couple weeks from arrival to launch???
Sounds like the El Nortes are evil in the N. Sea in the winter. So back to Mazatlan, San Carlos, Puerto Vallarta/ La Cruz de Huanacaxtle Tinnicatita, Barre de Navidad.
Once we proof the new rigging, maybe we will keep going this year or maybe next year. San Salvador ( there is a rally from the PV area), farther finds Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama… All of these seem to be South of the Hurricane zone for the winter months…
Saw this on a WINDY.COM email it’s a great APP on Android and IOS
Rigging info from:
Upper shrouds – 1×19 5/16 316 stainless, 5/8th pin. 44 feet long.
fwd lowers 1/4″ – 23′ 10 1/4″. 1/2″ pin
Aft lowers 1/4″ -24′ 1/4″. 1/2″ pin
Backstay – 5/16″ 48 feet however I have a rather long turnbuckle connector on the back stay so could be 2 feet longer without that. 5/8″ pin
Forestay is 46′ 5/16″. lower stud is a Harken furl long swage stud. 5/8″ pin.
MAINSHEET REGATTA BRAID 11MM
JIB SHEET STA-SET 11MM
SPIN SHEET STA-SET X 10MM
TRAVELLER REGATTA BRAID 10MM
MAIN HALYARD STA-SET X 11MM
JIB HALYARD STA-SET X 11MM
Mainsail, 115? length, 7/16? diameter (OEM was pre-streched 3/8″ diameter dacron);
Headsail, 115? length, 7/16? diameter (OEM was 7 x 19 SS 3/16″ wire and 7/16″ diameter dacron);
Spinnaker, 120? length, 7/16? diameter.
The main sheet length is a function of the number and location of the blocks on the boom and traveler, which varies amoung different T37s. The mainsheet diameter is a function of the winch (my Lewmar 16 self tailing one speed requires a 3/8″ diameter, which is smaller than the OEM 7/16″ diameter).
The genoa sheets are a function of the size of the headsail, which varies amoung different T37s, since the length has to be sufficient for example to run from the starboard winch around the forward shrouds to the clew when the genoa is on the starboard tack with the sail on the port side fully extended. The genoa sheet diameter is a function of the winch (my Anderson 46 self tailing two speed require a 1/2 diameter, which is smaller than the OEM 9/16″ diameter).
The reef lines are 3/8″ diameter and length is a function of the number of reefs.
The centerboard pennant is 30′ pre-streached dacron 3/8″ diameter.
Centerboard tag line is 3/8″ dacron.
Flag halyard is 1/8″ nylon.
The main boom topping lift was 7 x 19 vinyl coated wire 1/8″ diameter.
There was also a main boom topping pennant that was 5/16″ dacron. Jay.
Fin with rudder on skeg
37.29 ft / 11.37 m
28.50 ft / 8.69 m
11.75 ft / 3.58 m
667.00 ft2 / 61.97 m2
6.75 ft / 2.06 m
15,200 lb / 6,895 kg
7,500 lb / 3,402 kg
Tartan Marine (USA)
Sparkman & Stephens
Auxiliary Power/Tanks (orig. equip.)
60 gals / 227 L
25 gals / 95 L
Capsize Screening Formula:
50.00 ft / 15.24 m
16.00 ft / 4.88 m
44.50 ft / 13.56 m
12.00 ft / 3.66 m
400.00 ft2 / 37.16 m2
267.00 ft2 / 24.81 m2
S.A. Total (100% Fore + Main Triangles)
667.00 ft2 / 61.97 m2
Est. Forestay Len.:
52.50 ft / 16.00 m
s/v Hajime is a Tartan38 with a Tartan37 single spreader rig.
Same hull as the TARTAN 37(S&S) but with deeper fin keel and taller rig.