Windlass, alas!

We have been having problems with the windlass on s/v Hajime and have researched it to the BITTER END…

Remember these?

 

A techie post…

Our current windlass is a Lewmar Pro Fish 1000H second generation.  We put it on the boat at the end of 2010.

The design has been changed some from the second generation to the current generation three. It looks like the changes took place in 2013.  The information on the web is scarce.  I could probably just call Lewmar and ask, but what would be the fun in that.

The problems I have found:

My windlass experienced bearing failure on  MOST of the pressed in bearings.  Probably due to deferred maintenance issues.  And maybe a little due to the design issues in the second generation model we purchased in 2010.

The main shaft or the shaft holding the gypsy had no thrust bearing and no way to keep metal to metal parts from bearing and galling. Mainly the main drive gear into the inside of the cast body of the windlass behind the gypsy assy.

This same stainless shaft is not hard enough to work as a bearing shaft against the main bearing closest to the gypsy assy.  So it galls and wears excessively.

There is a  design issue brought out in youtube vids…

There are a set of repair videos on youtube that show a problem in the pre 2013 design and there are several vendors who sell gear assembly parts and bearings as described in this video…  I see that the compound gear has failed on our windlass and eaten the bearing pressed into a blind bore in the case.  This fellow says there is a tool for pulling a bearing race from a blind pocket.  Don’t have one and don’t want to get one!

 

Lewmar has come out with a generation three, G3,  of the Pro and Pro Fish horizontal Windlass.  The schematics clearly show they have addressed some of these issues .   Washers have been added to keep the gear body from the casting on the main drive shaft.  The offending “stop gear”  from the above youtube video has been replaced with a different gear set.  (different part numbers at least) Sealing gaskets have been added to help keep the salt water from the windlass interior…

From what I can see with a little web based forensics work on the designs of the pro 700H the Pro Fish 700H, the Pro 1000H, and the Pro Fish 1000H, I believe the following to be true.

All four designs look to share the same cast body and internal gear assemblies.  It looks like the differences lie in the size of the motors and the Gypsy size.  700H comes with 1/4 chain and 1/2 rode and the 1000H is standard with 5/16 chain and 9/16 rode.

The “pro fish”  have a free fall gypsy cover and the free fall clutch…  The “pro” have no free fall assy. It was normal for the 1000H “kit” to ship with a solenoid and remote toggle switch which was NOT supplied on the 700H.  Both had a circuit breaker supplied in the kits.

From the pyacht.com parts pages, it looks like all four models share the same replacement part numbers in a generation series.  I note the same parts are sold for all 4 models, 700 pro and profish and 1000 pro and profish…

Reference for the second generation:

http://www.pyacht.com/lewmar-pro-windlass-parts.htm .

Here is G2 and the BAD gear from the above video is “second compound gear assy. #22 , Lewmar #66000636

 

lewmar-pro-windlass-parts-big

* Kits are for use on Pro-Series/Pro-Fish (2nd Generation) with Serial Numbers starting 561***, 563***, 565***, 571***  or earlier kits please check the manual supplied with your windlass or contact Lewmar: 203-458-6200.

Serial Numbers
1st Gen 2nd Gen 3rd Gen
Series 700 560 561 567
Series 1000 570 571 572
Fish 700 562 563 569
Fish 1000 564 565 566

Here is the 3rd gen. G3:    Bad gear, compound gear,  is #51  Lewmar #66000760  so at least they have changed the part number and hopefully the design!Pro-series-fish-spares (1)

They have also added several washers and seals in the G3 model, #21, 22, 23, 24, 25 in the above drawing.  Hopefully these help with the thrust issue and the gear galling.  Hope they addressed the shaft hardness issue too or change the bearing specs, maybe add a hard race on the stainless shaft?

Reference for replacement gears from Defender.com:

Replacement gears are all same part numbers for all the models… here are some Defender.com pages with examples.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2276152&id=2546295

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2276152&id=3211175

Here are the defender motor replacement pages for the 700 and the 1000… shows two different motors?

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2276108|2276149|2276152&id=2303878

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2276108|2276149|2276152&id=1239328

I think the only “replacement” motor from Lewmar for either the 700 or the 1000 is the lewmar # 66000107 or the bigger motor from the 1000, here is the reference page:

http://www.lewmar.com/node/11613?v=25231

 Rev 01:

Just found a video from Lewmar on the V700 clearly shows a real raced bearing on the vertical main shaft (shaft which is bronze/brass) so I am hoping the vertical designers and the horizontal designers at Lewmar talk to each other and that they have fixed the main shaft bearing issue shown in the photos at the top of this blog…

Huh!

So we are going to try the Pro fish 1000H G3 mostly because it should drop in to replace the BAD G2 model.  Drop in replacement is fairly important for on the water maintenance and repairs…

We are also putting the windlass on the maintenance list for annual grease and clean and soon as Lewmar has a bearing kit, we will put one in the spares bag on s/v Hajime!

Just ordered a Lewmar 1000H pro from:

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/

 

 

 

 

 

Fin

 

 

 

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Huatulco, Oaxaca MX

Hey hey, don’t try to blog after the first margarita…

One part lime juice – it takes 5 limes to make about a 2 ounce portion of lime  (these are the 1-1/2 inch dia. MX limes…

One part Contreau, or in Mexico you can find find Controy at about 100 peso a liter.  Instead of Contreau for for 700 peso…  add 2 oz

And dd two parts tequila blanco.   4 oz.  Again you can find a nice tequila here for around 90 peso a liter Romero, El Jimidor, Orendain.

This makes 8 oz. of margarita, (ALWAYS make margaritas for two people, NEVER drink them both yourself) split the 8 oz. portion into two glasses and then fill them with ice and salt the rims, viola! MARGARITAS for TWO!

Did you know the margarita was first cooked up in Acapulco by Dallas socialite Margarita Sames,  or,  it was invented by someone else?  But who really cares?  reference: http://vinepair.com/wine-blog/the-mystery-behind-who-really-created-the-margarita/

Oh yes, Huatulco, Oaxaca…

We spent 12 days in Huatulco, Oaxaca.  Took a trip up to Oaxaca City the state capital and an old colonial city, saw some lovely gardens and cascades and big trees and Indian ruins…

Huatulco, how beautiful…

DSCF2628 (Copy)

First adventure was a trip to Hagia Sophia near Huatulco…  http://www.hagiasofia.mx/en/

Then to Cascades, Magico I need Liz’ photos too…

A trip in a taxi 8 hours to Oaxaca City…  (don’t a$k)

Oaxaca City, the tree, the cathedral/museum:

So many photos to choose from…

I have a link to ALL photos on photos.google.com … here!

https://goo.gl/photos/PVmdEgwRBq2HaGma8

FIN

 

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Puerto Angel, Oxaca MX – WOW

Don’t tell anyone.

What a pretty little bay!

https://www.tomzap.com/puerto_a.html

https://www.tomzap.com/map_east.html

 

Acapulco:

We had a lovely time in Acapulco.  It is not necessarly the most cruiser friendly place, but with the help of friends Alan and Liz on s/v Vivacia we rested in a couple of the nicest places…

 

The trip down from Acapulco was NICE.  We sailed quite a bit and took about 52 hours total, maybe 15 to 18 motoring.  It was very nice to leave Acapulco at the beginning of Semana Santa. ( http://www.mexonline.com/semana.htm )

Things were getting a little busy on the bay:

 

So off we went, ever south (or east maybe).  We are headed for the south most part of our planned trip at 15° 40′  N latitude and from Acapulco t 16° 51’N ,  it is  about 75 miles south and  180 (ish) miles east to Puerto Angel and then another 25 or so NM before we turn back at Huatulco…

Along the way, dolphins and tigers and rays (Oh my!)  WHere is your camera when you need one!

Puerto Angel was a surprise.  We were not planning to stop here, however, buddy boat was fighting an alternator issue and we came in around noon 3/24/2016.  First impression os that the bay is too small for two boats, we turned to leave and a fellow on a panga waved us back in so we tried earnestly and often and finally anchored happily!  We are now five sailboats here and there is plenty of room for more!

Next on to the bays of Huatulco, maybe put the boats into a marina at Marina Chuhue and bus up to Oaxaca city to see the sights?  SHould be a few weeks before we make the turn back up coast…

Tech:

What have we fixed lately?   Re wired the water maker to take out the quick connects I had in the circuit  (just did not like the voltage drop from the panel to the motor). I think the quick connectors cause heat at the connections.  We removed two from the water maker circuit. Who wired that thing?

Windlass has been taken apart and re-assembled a three times.  All the bearings are shot and I’ve tried to line the main shaft bearing with some thin poly sheeting.  We shall see how long it holds.  We also made those poly washers and put them on either side of the main shaft between the drive gear and housing and and outside the housing between the clutch hub of the shaft and the housing in order to try to reduce gauling…  Again, time will tell if it makes it the rest of the season

So how are the batteries doing?

G R E A T !  Really, we are so happy with them…  (Knock Wood!)

Maybe the best part is not trying to translate 12 volt lead acid battery voltages to state of charge.   We are now just counting amp hours in and out!  And still have not done a capacity test.  It’s on the  list!  We have seen up to -175 Amp hours so far, so the choice of a 400 AH bank was probably correct for s/v Hajime.

FIN

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Mo Zihuatanejo then further south!

zihAnd, yes, I do know the difference between using “farther” vs “further”, metaphysically speaking!

We had a great week in Zihuatanejo and Ixtapa and then moved down the coast another 110 NM to Alcapulco buddy boating with s/v VIVACIA.

Some Zihuatanejo photos:

Some photos of during the sail south:

I edited it down to 6 seconds and the flash? is at end of file, full screen helps!

 

Some Acapulco photos:

 

And the techie update…  (actualización de la tecnología)

LiFePo4 Batteries:  

Damn new batteries, we can’t seem to run them down below 13 volts.  Have to switch the  alternator output to the starter battery so we don’t overcharge the LiFePo4 bank.  We are still playing with the programming on the solar charge controller to make sure we don’t overcharge via the solar panels.

On the windlass.

I have done some research and think we have a Generation 2 version of the Lewmar Pro Fish 1000 Horizontal.  It turns out there are THREE generations of the windlass.  Buyer beware for the service parts…  And I still have not found that serial number!  There seem to be quite a few sources for parts kits for the windlass (good and bad).  Good because I can get parts, and bad because there seems to be a big enough need for parts that there are several places selling them!

I got a little big headed when I found out that the temporary FIX I came up with of adding a poly washer to stop the galling of the main drive gear against the cast stainless steel body of the windlass which allows us to tighten the clutch and still be able to run the windlass motor without binding the gears and stalling the electric motor….  is the same FIX they put in place on the Gen 3 of the windlass (they added washer 22 in the schematic below)…  They added other washers and gaskets and etc as well on Gen 3…  I hope they also figured out how to harden the stainless shaft (28) for use against the bearing (5)?  Or in my opinion the galling on the shaft will continue???  I’d love to hear from other Lewmar Pro 1000 H owners on this parts wear they have seen???  On mine the bearing is toast and the shaft is worn down a half millimeter all around…  Maybe that’s why they sell “Shaft kits” and “bearing kits” and etc..  http://www.pyacht.com/lewmar-pro-windlass-parts.htm

Lewmar Pro 1000 H Generation 3 schematic:  Note washers 21 and 22 etc…  added gaskets 24, 25, etc

Gen 3

Lewmar Pro 1000 H Generation 2 schematic:

Lewmar Pro Series Windlass Parts

FIN

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Bahia de Santiago a Zihuatanejo – Ixtapa

The trip:

We buddy boated this leg with SV Vivacia, woohoo.  After living aboard since 2010, we finally got our DSC select calling on the VHF radio figured out.  Thanks Liz!

The trip was 189 NM –  about 45 hours underway, anchor up in Bahia de Santiago Tuesday Mar 01, 2016  at 9:00 AM and off we went.  Once out of the bay it is almost a straight line sail at around 130 deg. magnetic with only one bearing change to 100 deg. magnetic if the winds are favorable and for most of the trip they were pretty good. We ran the motor for 17 hours on the 42 hour trip and had some lovely sailing.  We did some floating along the way too… During the float,  it was nice to be entertained by spinning dolphins…

 

Some trip photos: 

 Zihuatanejo Map, Guerrero, Mexico  carte-mexique-copie-2.png

We were out two nights, our timing on departure was only fair so we were fighting a nighttime arrival and had to slow the boats some part of the trip.  Unless you add some uncertainty to your trip by lengthening it, you slow the boat only so much.  Currents running over 1 knot (our way)  plus motor minimum RPM and you are running 5+ knots. With a 2 am arrival projected we slowed to a drift at times.  WE DON’T ENTER AN ANCHORAGE OR MARINA AT NIGHT!

Zihuatanejo – We did not make it here last year.  The town seems a little cleaner, maybe the fishing boats look a to be in a little better repair.  Nice to see!

 

And of course, friends Mike and Val, SV Red Sky, from Alameda are here on holiday!

 

AND…. There is Guitarfest 2016:

 

Boat projects – yes…

Pumps are running well ( refrigerator and potable water and sump)…  Knock wood.

Bilge is dry (that is a bit suspect?) ,

auto pilot running well,

radios working, GPS and AIS working.

Engine, George, seems happy ( oil change soon).

Zincs all look FINE. shaft and refr. and engine.

Rigging, running and standing, all check out sound and weathering well. Do need to replace some cheap nylon line we put up as lazy jacks on the mainsail.

Water maker seems a bit slow, we will look into that soon!

We ran the Monitor wind vane earlier this year coming down from Mazatlan to Santiago Bay and it worked well.

Tacktick wireless wind instrumants are functioning well, they were new in 2010 when we commissioned “Hajime” and seem to be running strong!  Triducer and fluxgate compass OK.  We can’t figure out how we get depth readout when power is not applied to the transducer.  Maybe there is a battery in the tacktick T-121 12v wired and powered transmitter.  ( I just googled it!  there is a battery in the T-121 wall mounted and 12v powered unit so that if you turn off the power to the triducer it still supplies wireless info on speed thru water, depth, and water temp. to the displays in the cockpit.

Thru hulls are looking good, no leaks or corrosion evident.

LiFePo4 update:

The new instrumentation for the LiFePo4 batteries works well (Victron BMS-702) and the batteries seem to be performing well.

The alternator stock 120 amp on our Beta 30 diesel engine is working well with the new batteries.  We have not seen much over 190 degrees F. MAX. from the alternator casing ( we have a thermocouple installed) and it seems to run around 175 deg. F.  at 50 to 55 amps after initial load in the 70 amp to 80 amp range.  We get a drop off to around 10 to 15 amps when the battery bank voltage gets around  14.0 to 14.1 volts and the temp drops to around 155 deg. F.  We switch the alternator output over to the starter battery when we see 14.0 volts on the LiFePo4’s.

The solar charger is programmed to float charge  to 13.8 volts with no equalization setting so that it runs most of the time and the systen will get 20 or so amps from solar, unless the bank is fully charged, then it shuts itself off.

Capacity – We have discharged the battery bank down to -270 amp hours or so out of the 400 amp hour stated capacity and still plan to do a capacity test soon as we are comfortable to do that big discharge…

Current projects:

Right now we are working on the windlass, it is six years old this year, and may need bearings or something?  I have the manual out and have gotten the auto anchor drop unstuck.  It has been stuck for four years, but something TIGHTENS up when a link jambs in the gypsy and makes the motor work VERY hard.  Also, the battery we have in the bow, which is ONLY for the windlass, may have been abused once or twice.  Fully discharging and not charging a battery up again in a timely manner tends to shorten the life of a battery!  We may have done that to this one a couple times over the years!  We charge using a DC DC charger or a small AC DC charger located near the battery in the bow.  It’s a manual must remember to do thing!

Lewmar Pro Fish 1000 Horizontal ( think it’s a gen 2 )  need to see if I can find a serial number someplace other than the sticker which fell off years ago.  We did not write it down on the user manual when we installed it, shame on us!

Lewmar Pro Series Windlass Parts  Pro Fish Free-Fall Windlasses

FIN

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Rats and cats and sunken ships

No cats in the story, but the rhyme is nice!

Maybe there is a cat…  Here at Bahia Santiago at the Playa Boquito end of the beach, where all the ramadas (beach restaurants) are,  there are several cats who help keep the beach restaurant’s floors clean.

On to the story…  

We returned here to Bahia de Santiago after a four day trip up to Barre de Navidad to do laundry and visit the French Baker and the Restaurant BAR Ramon where  they have the best chili relleno con camarones (in the world) !

Twas a windy afternoon when we arrived and we set anchor a bit close to friends, pulled it up than circled around a bit and finally reset anchor down wind a bit.  We were a little close to sv Rebecca in a busy anchorage, but they were OK with us….So we settled in for a bit of a rest after the grueling 5 hour trip.

IMG_20160226_093757311 (Copy).jpg

The rat:

While sated in the cockpit of sv Hajime, Jess leaned back and looked up a the inside of the bimini sun shade and through the covered clear vinyl skylight she saw what looked like a furry critter…  Maybe a member of the rodent family, maybe a rat?  A  fat little fellow.  I recreate the scene using a mouse, (from my PC) ha!

IMG_20160227_150236093 (Copy).jpg

We are thinking that since we have not touched dock in over two weeks, that maybe the rat came from a floating lily type mat of vegetation that came into Barra lagoon the day we left…  Maybe ratso floated in on the vegetation and then climbed aboard via the anchor chain?

We offered him the sea or a broom handle, he swam very well…

The ship wrecks: 

Liz on sv Vivacia hosted Jess and I on a snorkeling adventure over the big wreck at the west end of the anchorage here in Santiago Bay.  Jess was adventuresome, however,  I did not like the wreck much at all.  It is a bit frightening floating over a sunk big metal vessel with all kinds of dark places, holes, and fish type things JUMPING out at you!  So I was the fellow who stayed off to the side of the wreck and could come in to rescue anyone who got in trouble.

By the way…  Do not let those mean bullying girls shame you into doing something really dumb after calling you a shipwreck sissy.   What? Oh… maybe something like running an estuary inlet at max flow rate.  I’m sure it was at least 20 knots!

 

That was before we left for Barra de Navidad.

On our return it seems we took great pains to drop anchor (the second time)  directly on top of another wreck, this one in 20 foot of water.  This one not charted. And we were no more than 75 foot from where we had spent 4 days at anchor earlier.

Our snag was such that it made our effective anchor rode about 25 foot long.  straight down to the bottom and wrapped around some steel sheeting and ribbing from the old wreck.  When a swell comes along it pulls on the snubbed anchor rode pretty hard and jerks the boat around quite a bit.  We spent a restless night and Jim, shipwreck sissy Jim, dove on the problem the next morning and got the anchor and chain back from the demon of the deep, well 20 foot is pretty deep!

chainsnag

The coordinates of this wreck are:

Lat:  N 19 deg. 06.633 min.    Lon:  W 104 deg. 23.676 min.

and we added it to the Navionics data base…

Oh yes, we sailed by another shipwreck near Barra de Navidad, Los Llanitos went onto the rocks near Punta Graham during Hurricane Patricia in Oct. 2015.:

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Los Llanitos

Jess notes on the anchor retrieval:

“Or the end of the chain story;  You may recollect that we spent all of last night jerking on a short chain, entangled around something on the bottom of the water here in the anchorage, surrounded by other boats with no apparent problem.

Jim boldly geared up and swam down to find—yes, another shipwreck.  You should know that while Liz and I were snorkeling over the shipwreck we planned on visiting,  Jim hovered offsides, refusing to come in and see it.  It spooked him.  So, what does Jim have to do?  Dive down 20 feet, locate our chain wrapped thrice around some steel plate on the sea bed, work it loose with the ribs of this wreck tickling his back and closing in over his head, and the moray eel squiggling out of it’s disrupted home, and who knows what else down there, including the ghosts of dead sailors.  So then, when he thought it was all done and all I had to do was reel in the chain, sure enough, it snags again.  He had to go back down 20 feet and get it off the rib, which he is sure reached out and grabbed it as it went past in a final effort to trap him in Davey Jone’s locker.

Why this is not marked on any charts?  I don’t know,  It’s on ours now.  It turns out that in 1959 Hurricane Number fifteen swept right over Santiago, and ran more than 50 ships aground in this very bay. At least three of them remain documented as ship wrecks, and we have now located all three.  That is not to say there aren’t more out here.  1800 people lost their lives, ashore and at sea.  And we never knew.

So, after the chain, we went in to town to do a little shopping, and Jim managed to fall down in the surf and get drenched  as we landed our dinghy.  That’s all well and good, it’s part of the life.  Then we got water over the bow as we headed back to the boat, and all of our veggies are officially, as the french would say, ‘pre-sale.’  We considered going down and cleaning the boat bottom after that, but somehow we didn’t have much faith that the world was going to be friendly to us.  Besides, I spilled boiling water on my hand yesterday and am effectively left handed for a little while .  It has been a challenging couple of days. (Yes, it is blistered on the palm, they are unruptured, and I hope to keep the skin there intact until it heals.  It only hurts if I grab things with it.  Yes, I have lidocaine burn gel and some special burn dressings if the skin decides to slough before my new skin gets organized under there.  Stop worrying.) (Besides, we are heading down to Zihuatanejo, where we have a relationship with the local doctor.  They dealt with Jim’s sea urchin infection and my case of montezuma’s revenge, so we know him.)

In any event, the plan is to head out Monday morning for Z town.  We will be traveling with Liz and Alan on Vivacia.  It’s a 200 mile passage, which works out on the order of 50 hours.

So, that’s all the news that’s fit to print.  Tomorrow is a new day which we hope will not involve snarled anchors or kitchen mishaps.”

FIN

 

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South “down the coast”

Re-cap of season so far…

We got the boat up and running in January and headed south for Puerto Vallarta with stops in the San Blas area and at Chacala Bay.  Oh yes, there was an aborted start for Jim’s shingles…

Once in PV at La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, we ran back to San Blas for Xmas and then back to PV on the boat before putting her in Marina Vallarta for a few weeks.

We had some temporary resident paperwork to take care of in Mazatlan.  Since we started the resident process at the Immigration Office in Mazatlan it seemed to us best to continue it there.  We rode bus from PV to Mazatlan a couple times ( 8 or 9 hours each way) then ran the boat back up coast to Mazatlan to finish up the 3 week long temporary resident card application process.

We got a close call when cut off sailing by a BIG grey power boat on Jan 29 or 30 returning to PV.  Near Punta de Mita.  We think it was the same boat which was lost on the rocks at either Punta de Mita or in Yalapa that same weekend…  No news stories on the incident to cite?  Huh?…  The BIG grey boat was a jet boat and had been docked at La Cruz…

After resident cards were done, we got involved with battery problems.  First in PV, the group 27 starter batteries had a problem. A short in a cell on one of the 12v batteries took the # two battery bank out.  One got very HOT and we pulled it out and put it on the dock as soon as we found it.  Tried the other one but both batteries were dead without a charger so we replaced them with a single group 34 AGM SLA battery.  Also since the four GC2 six volt batteries in our house bank were 4 years old and had been over stressed a couple times, we took advantage of friends driving to Guaymas to bring us some supplies and some new batteries…  We went a little crazy and ordered LiFePo4 (lithium) batteries.

We sailed up to Mazatlan and rented a car for the trip to Guaymas for visiting with friends and collecting new batteries, a solar panel, some gauges and misc. boat stuff.  Mazatlan has Carnival in February and we worked around all that.   We had our 10th anniversary (vale-versary on 2/12) in Mazatlan…

New stuff:

Sailing out of Mazatlan, we ran to Bahia Santiago near Manzanillo, a little over 300 NM, before stopping and finding Alan and Liz from sv Vivacia… We played with them and new friends and then ran back up to Barra de Navidad for a few days to provision and do laundry.

We leave for Santiago Bay again tomorrow to catch up with and buddy boat with s/v Vivacia on to Zihuatanejo for the guitarfest…

link:  http://www.zihuafest.info/

Welcome to Zihuafest.info : The Official Website of the Zihuatanejo International Guitar Festival

Should bring the messed up year up to date…

BUT YOU ASK, WHAT ABOUT THOSE NEW LiFePo4 BATTERIES?

Not much to tell…

We have run them down only 250 Amp Hours at a max so far, we did that on dock in Mazatlan before leaving to head south last week. Since then they have been brought back to within 25 Amp Hours of full most every day either by motoring (charging with the alternator) or by the solar panels.

Alternator charging:  The 120 amp alternator has run up just over 70 amp output maximum so far.  We are monitoring the temperature of the alternator using a thermo couple and remote digital display and see a max of around 190 deg. F. on the alternator body.  We understand that over 220 deg. F. is BAD so we are not uncomfortable at 190 deg, F.  As the battery voltage approached 14.0 volts the alternator charge output amps drop and the alternator cools.  We manually switch over to the starter battery at a LiFePo4 charge of 14.1 to 14.0 volts if necessary.  We have not seen the UPPER knee of the charge curve yet.

IMG_20160225_161553385.jpg

Solar charging:  We have set the float voltage on our new programmable controller to take the batteries up to 14.0 volts as well before shutting down the solar charge.  The new controller seems to be working and we monitor the batteries several times a day still.

We plan to try to do a bank capacity test soon as we can for that BASELINE battery capacity… Plot from pbase.com

0.4C Charge - 12v 100Ah Winston Cell

The Process:
#1 Charging = 13.8V and current allowed to taper
#2 Cell Temps = 76F – 77F
#3 DC Load = 30A constant
#4 Voltage Cut Off = 11.2V / 2.8VPC ( not sure we will go to 11.2 v??)
#5 Capacity Measurements = Ampere Hours & Time At Load

 

FIN

 

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Batteries batteries batteries LiFePo4

Techie with angst…

We went through buyers elation in finding “drop-in” batteries for s/v Hajime.  and ordering them QUICK LIKE so our friends could bring them down to Mexico on their already planned trip…

Buyers remorse, in finding more and more information on “What have we done?” buying the LiFePo4 “drop-in” batteries…

Ordered more and more stuff to support our, already made, decision (no going back now…)  on the set of 4 each 100Ah drop in batteries to make our 400 Ah house bank for the sailing vessel…

STUFF so far…

4 ea LiFePo4 100 Ah batteries, made from 26650 cells 4P31S, LIFEPO4 12V 100AH LITHIUM PHOSPHATE DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FOR SOLAR & WIND SLA Repl

1 ea Solar charge controller, programmable on all charge parameters from 9 to 17 volts , 4215BN EP Tracer 40A 12V 24V MPPT Solar charger Controller regulator with MT50

1 ea Victron battery monitor, Victron Energy Precision Battery Monitor BMV-702S 

2 ea Amp meters with kWh and shunts, just to see what a $17 meter can do… 100A DC Digital Watt KWH Current Power Energy Meter Ammeter Voltmeter 7-100V US

1 ea digital thermometer to help keep an eye on alternator and battery temperatures, Digital Thermometer Dual Channel Input Thermocouple K J T E R S N C/F Type TQ22

2 ea thermocouples with 10 ft. lgth… New Omega 120″ × 0.01″ Fine Wire Glass Type K Thermocouple # SA1XL-K-120-SRTC

1 ea just in case got a diode based charge splitter???, NEW Sealed Sure Power 1202-D Marine Auto RV Battery Isolator 2 Batteries 120 amp

1 ea Added a 150watt solar panel to the house system taking the house solar charge capacity to 420watts, Newpowa 150W Watt 12V Solar Panel High Efficiency Poly Module Rv Marine Boat Off Grid

Installation took a couple days:

We removed the LEAD ACID GC-2 6 volt 220 Ah batteries (4 each) from our battery box under the helm, up through the starboard lazaret hatch. This was the hardest part of the job, the GC-2’s weigh close to 65 pounds a piece for a total of 260 pounds REMOVED.

The new batteries weighed in at  about 27 pounds each for a total of 108 pounds INSTALLED…    The ebay add had them listed at 18 kg or 39.7 pounds each, so we are pleased .

NEW BATTERY SIZE: also smaller than the listing on the Ebay add, the actual size is:

10-7/32″  x  6-3/16″  x  9-5/8 ”     or (260 x 158 x 246) in millimeters 

Two GC-2’s got us spec. 210 Ah at 12.7 volts nominal and two LiFePo4’s have spec of 12.8 volt nominal at 100 Ah each for total of 200 Ah for two…   AND you all know the differences in usable amp hours for the LiFePo4’s vs. lead acid batteries so why go there again?

Interesting stuff found while we were playing with the batteries…

Battery packs  arrives at an average of 13.1 volt state of charge.   We connected the four in parallel and let them sit overnight then disconnected them from each other.  And they were all within 0.02 volt of 13.1 volts at rest for the next couple days …

We hooked up all the new battery monitors and gauges into the boat systems and then, hooked the LiFePo4’s into the boat system.

We applied the shore charger and could only get it to pump around a max of 10 amps from the 25 amp rated Newmar shore charger.   Installed our backup shore charger, a IOTA 30 amp IQ4 system and got similar results.  The system voltage would not get much above 13.5 volts.   Thinking the chargers go to acceptance or float charge directly because of the higher nominal voltage in the LiFePo4’s.

NEED TO WORK ON THE SHORE CHARGE SYSTEM!  At least need to see how it works on a more fully discharged battery bank…

After installing the new 150 watt solar panel to bring the house to 420 watts, and the new 40 amp solar charge controller, we found we could get about 150 total Amp Hours pumped into the batteries and called them full at a system voltage during charging of about 13.88 volts.

This FULL matched the shore charge FULL and the new solar charger turns charging off at this voltage, we programmed it to do so…

On to the alternator.  This morning, we ran the engine to study the alternator charge system.  The house was at  -50 Ah from full on the system’s new Victron BMV-702 battery monitor.  We ran for 1.25 hours and monitored the alternator temperature and power and energy and voltages.

The engine running for 1.25 hours pumped the 50 Ah back into the batteries max observed amperage output from our 120 amp alternator was 50 amps.  Max alternator temperature observed was 180 deg. F.   When the battery bank was full again, we manually re-directed the alternator output over to the starter battery to assure ourselves that the alternator would drop down to nominal output amps.  ALL WORKED AS PLANNED…

Next steps are to live off the batteries only for a bit at dock and run them down to 20% SOC (state of charge) and then see what it takes them to charge up again…

Wish us continuing persistence…

Some new battery photos…

New Boat Electrical Schematic:

Hajime Battery 2

 

 

FIN for now…

 

 

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What you doin…

All kinds of techie stuff going on the prior blog, but though I would update with what we been up to other than techie stuff.

We arrived this year in Puerto Vallarta and took a bus up to Mazatlan where the boat rested for the summer months.  PV because the plane tickets were pretty very cheap.  Bus is a 8 to 9 hour ride and usually gets you in around 8:00 PM so we took a hotel for one night.

Came over to the boat and moved aboard the next day.  Opened the boat and readied her for departure south.  We left Mazatlan just before Hurricane Sandra kicked up.  We got down to Isla Isabella.  Jim got a rash kind of breakout around his middle that turned out to be shingles.  We ran back to Mazatlan and waited out the storm and the treatment medication.  We saw a Medical Doctor at Marina El Cid for prescriptions…

Left again and ran down to San Blas / Mantanchen Bay then down to Chacala and on to Banderas Bay at San Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Marina La Cruz.  We stayed for bit, saw cousin Tom and Nancy visiting PV for a week…

 

We then ran back to Chacaka for Christmas eve and a few days peace.  After, we motored up to Mantanchen Bay for a few days then back to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle for New Years Eve.

 

There is a rumor that a big (75 foot plus) jet boat ran aground near Puata de Mita right after we were in the area.  When we passed Punta de Mita on Jan 30, we were in an incident with a big boat at around 2:25 PM…  Nothing too worrisome, he came across our bow under power (maybe racing another mega yacht) while we were sailing… Not really boater safe navigation and very interesting!

 

After new years we put the boat into Marina Vallarta and received some boat supplies from Jess’ cousin Bobby and Robert Berger who visit PV this time of the year!  Had a couple lovely visits with them.

We took a bus to Mazatlan a couple times to get some visa (temporary resident) paperwork taken care of.  Stayed at hotel on the beach, Hotel la Siesta, a couple times too…

Had some time so we got a replacement for our non functioning Honda 2 HP dingy motor…  We have tried the coil and plug we got from cousin Bobby but motor is not fixed yet?  We left it with the professionals on sv Landfall at Marina La Cruz…

Returned to PV, got the boat out of the marina and stopped a couple days in La Cruz then headed north again.  This time with the boat…  A stop overnight in Chacala then overnight to Mazatlan.  Where we sit and write this catch up blog…  Mazatlan is getting ready for Carnival, we are hard at work getting ready to get up to Guaymas to meet friends Gil and Lexi (with boat stuff)…  And yes the jib is back filled in the last photo while we motor sail, it’s to cut down the roll when headed mostly into the wind…

FIN

 

 

 

 

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Techie – Batteries LiFePo4 – The three little pigs

Lithium IRON Phosphate battery technology – LiFePo4 – looks to be in production world wide and seems to be a safer electrical storage technology than the previous Lithium Ion battery chemistry was for use on a cruising sail boat. We looked at sources and costs and shipping charges and and and…   We got a note from friends who said they were driving down from San Diego CA USA to Guaymas Sonora MX and and and we jumped at the opportunity to have batteries shipped to them in San Diego and we will figure out how to get them from Guaymas to where ever we are…  Our 4 year old 6 volt GC2 220 Amp hour batteries (4 in the house bank) are showing their age …

There are many cost comparisons on the web for lead acid vs. AGM vo Gel vs LiFePo4 vs vs vs, sufuce it to say we picked the LiFePo4’s …

The LiFePo4 batteries are interesting in that they seem to have conquered the Lithium Ion battery problems of overheating.toxicity, hazardous waste, fire and etc.

The ones we ordered are advertised as “drop-in replacement” for lead acid batteries.  Having studied the web info, bot all of it I am sure, we hope our installation wcan be relatively clean fairly low impact to the boat systems in place.

I’ll go over our planned changes, which we hope to keep to a minimum.   Thinking that if you have to spend a fortune to implement the lithium batteries that them become way less attractive!  And I’ve just put interesting links found investigating making our house bank a lithium iron phosphate battery bank…

  1.  LiFePo4 batteries – 4 each 100 Ah  12v LiFePo4 “drop in: batteries $870 ea,
  2. Battery Monitor – replace the NASA BM-1 Compact with a Victron BM-702 $218
  3. Add Diode Battery Isolator – A battery isolator should reduce the charge voltages passing through it bu 0.4 to  volts effectively reducing out charge voltages from 14.4 max to 13.4/14.0 max – Sure Power 1202-D Marine Battery Isolator 120 Amp max.  We will run both the alternator output and the shore power charger through this… $65
  4. Solar Charge controller – Replace our e20 from eMarine Inc with a 4215BN EP Tracer 40A 12V 24V MPPT Solar charger Controller regulator with MT50. It has user programmable charge voltage settings $210
  5. We are also getting some temperature monitor equipment to keep an eye on the alternator temp while charging and the battery bank temperature.
  6. I also saw some Amp/Volt/Watt hour meters with shunt for $17 each and had to see how they work!  Toy time for this one…  We will put one in system somewhere to access their value!
  7. We may add a solar panel.  We think we are a little under served by the two 135 watt kyocera panels in the current syste,  Thinking of adding a 100 or 150 watt panel…

 

 

“Three little pigs”  – you say! 

Ya, “the three little pigs”,  what do I mean?    Our major problems in our conversion from Lead Acid batteries to Lithium batteries looked to be the three charging systems we use on-board s/v Hajime:  1) solar panels,  2) the diesel motor alternator, and 3) the shore power battery charger…   We hope to slaughter the pigs as follows:

Some new equipment needs for s/v  Hajime:

As an overall control tool, we have ordered a Victron MC-702S.  It is a gauge for being able to count Amp Hours in and out…  The 702 also gives us info on an aux. or starter battery and programmability to control relays based on state of charge limits (SOC) if we feel it necessary in the future…

Victron Energy Precision Battery Monitor BMV-702S Retail $243.00

Seems our “NASA BM-1 Compact” is a bit crude for using with a LiFePo4 bank, it has no programmable features and no re-set-able functions :

Image result for nasa bm-1 image

We are changing our solar controller for the photo voltaic panels which we can program voltages for the charge phases.  We found this 4215BN on ebay which is user programmable on all three phases between  9 and 16 volts…

4215BN EP Tracer 40A 12V 24V MPPT Solar charger Controller regulator with MT50

We are thinking of adding a third PV panel to our two panel system:

Kyocera 140 Watt 12 Volt Solar Panel Fixed Frame KD140SX-UPU, Kyocera, 140 Watt Solar Panel

Size 26.25 x 1.88 x 59″  of our existing two Kyocera 135 W panels came with the Hybrid Wind/Solar kit from eMarine Inc. purchased in 2010…  and we are looking at adding a third panel when we can…:  more later

We need to manage/track the alternator  charge cycle so we don’t overheat our 120 AMP Beta 30 OEM 120 Amp internally regulated alternator…  We do need to get the output voltage limited to <=14.0 volts … Our studies conclude that a diode based charge splitter will reduce the voltage output of an alternator by  0.4 to 0.9 volts. Using this we hope to reduce the output voltage of both the alternator and the shore power charger…

Sure Power 1202-D Marine Auto RV Battery Isolator 2 Batteries 120 amp

NEW-Sealed-Sure-Power-1202-D-Marine-Auto-RV-Battery-Isolator-2-Batteries-120-amp

Our alternator a 120 Amp OEM from Beta Marine supplied on our Beta 30 Marine diesel engine looks to top out at 14.4 volts output, so maybe the splitter/diode  (old tech) is just the ticket to reduce our alternator output voltage to around 14.0 volts max. without trying to use an external voltage regulator… TWT  (time will tell)

Rebuilding A Westerbeke Alternator

We plan to monitor the temperature of the system components ie. alternator and batteries so we found a temperature gauge and type K thermocouples to put in-place to help us monitor, we had a infrared gun  type and have added thermocouple type…

 

Engine Temp Monitoring & Over Heating Baseline Assessment  Digital-Thermometer-Dual-Channel-Input-Thermocouple-K-J-T-E-R-S-N-C-F-Type-TQ22 New-Omega-120-0-01-Fine-Wire-Glass-Type-K-Thermocouple-SA1XL-K-120-SRTC

 

We may need to add similar process controls for our shore charging and get a procedure in place prior to replacing charger with better suited equipment but to begin with we will run our existing charger through the diode based battery splitter and see if it reduces voltage to acceptable levels!

Installing A Marine Battery Charger Image result for marine battery charger

 

New Equipment :   Bayite DC 100 AMP meter and Victron BMV-702s and 100Ah LiFePo4’s.  The “Bayite DC100 meter”  is a toy for us to see how a well a $17 gauge will work in this environment …  A remote temperature gauge and thermocouples,  A programmable solar charge controller and a cahge splitter 120 Amp for alternator and battery charger output voltage reduction…

100A DC Digital Watt KWH Current Power Energy Meter Ammeter Voltmeter 7-100V US Victron Energy Precision Battery Monitor BMV-702S Retail $243.00  LIFEPO4-12V-100AH-LITHIUM-PHOSPHATE-DEEP-CYCLE-BATTERY-FOR-SOLAR-WIND-SLA-Repl NEW-Sealed-Sure-Power-1202-D-Marine-Auto-RV-Battery-Isolator-2-Batteries-120-amp  Digital-Thermometer-Dual-Channel-Input-Thermocouple-K-J-T-E-R-S-N-C-F-Type-TQ22  New-Omega-120-0-01-Fine-Wire-Glass-Type-K-Thermocouple-SA1XL-K-120-SRTC 4215BN EP Tracer 40A 12V 24V MPPT Solar charger Controller regulator with MT50

Summary (for now):

I have looked and looked to see if anyone has been dumb enough to to try to put the “drop in” 100 amp hour into a 400 amp hour house bank by building a parallel connected battery bank.  No one has been brave enough to stand up and say “I tried”.

Well, we are going to try and in order to only risk half of out battery investment in the beginning, we are looking to try two of the 100 Ah batteries in parallel and if all goes well we may add the other two we purchased to the house bank if needed!

General Info, parts info etc…

Thanks Alan, a post link:

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2014/08/the_diy_lithium_battery_bank_bob_ebaugh_has_330_cycles_so_far.html

There is a blog/web page by Compass Marine takes issue with the idea of “drop in replacements” and we are taking his concerns and warnings to heart while we implement the energy storage system into s/v Hajime:  Here is an ir-reverent rant from Compass Marine (http://www.marinehowto.com/) on Pbase.com, it is really rather comprehensive and in my opinion well done, Thanks Compass Marine!   Could title an entire blog, “Oh my, what have we gotten into?”  or maybe “Ha Jim e! it’s your LiFePo4!”  …:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/lifepo4_on_boats

Liked this info from above blog, hope my quoting the below text is taken as a compliment and not a copyright infringement:

“LiFePO4 Pro’s:

*CYCLE LIFE:
2000+ “claimed” cycles to 80% DOD (depth of discharge). If we compare the best AGM batteries to LFP we find that reputable manufactures such as Enersys/Odyssey claim just 400 *lab ratedcycles to 80% DOD.

I suspect, (wild ass guess), that LFP prismatic cells, from reputable manufacturers such as Winston, CALB, Sinopoly, Hi Power, GBS and others, can last approx 1600-2400 cycles even when pushed regularly to 80% DOD, in the real world of the marine environment. The manufacturers claim more, but so do the lead acid makers, and these are always ideal “lab” conditions. Of course at this point in time this is a WAG (wild ass guess) on my part. I can assure you even 1600+ cycles is a very long time. I have been busting my hump for approx 28 months and have only managed to put 550 cycles on this bank and that is with accelerated cycle testing..

Of course the average lead acid battery on boats is often dead well before 150 cycles and they rarely if ever even come close to the “lab rated” cycles. Do the math on your own bank, be honest about it, and see how many cycles you had, to 50% SOC, before your bank needed replacement. Most boat owners are shocked when they do this math.

*I have never seen a single lead acid battery bank hit its lab rating in the marine environment, especially not on cruising boats. These lab numbers are fairy-tale ratings when translated into the real world. I also don’t entirely trust the lab ratings of the LFP cells, though some have done the testing and have seen this.

 

Alex MeVay the CEO of Genasun firmly believes in 2000+ cycles to 70% DOD. This is utterly amazing cycle life if it can really happen. Based on what I am seeing at 550+/- cycles I am trending towards believing it..

*USABLE CAPACITY RANGE:
Approx 80% of an LFP banks capacity is fully usable. With lead acid you often have just 30-35% usable capacity (50% SOC to 80-85% SOC) due to charge acceptance current limiting. With LFP current limiting or acceptance taper is very, very short in duration, even at relatively low charging voltages of 13.8V – 14.0V.
*CHARGING SPEED:
Very, very short current taper even with large current sources. Charge to nearly full before even attaining absorption voltage. This of course is entirely dependent on your charging voltage and your current source. We charge at 120A steady (160A alt set up to run at 120A continuously) and our current taper lasts only 30-35 minutes. Compare that to HOURS and HOURS of current limiting using a 120A charge source on 400Ah lead acid batteries. With a small charge source, like solar or wind, you will hit 99%+ SOC before any current limiting occurs. Our bank literally has to be chock full before our solar array can even get to 13.8V…. These batteries can take immense current, and charge extremely fast, but really tend to do extremely well with .3C to .5C in charge current…..
*WEIGHT/SPACE:
Less than half the weight of lead Ah to Ah and almost always more compact. The 400Ah bank in this article weighs 134 pounds less than a 400Ah lead acid bank. However, to equal the usable capacity of a 400Ah LFP bank you would need approx 900Ah’s of lead. This makes the 400Ah LFP bank approx 400 pounds lighter than the equivalent usable capacity in lead acid!
*GET OUT THE DEAD LEAD:
The term “dead lead” is s term I coined in my electrical seminars. The typical lead acid bank consists of 65-70% of the weight being comprised of “dead lead” or the excess lead you carry around but that you can not use. If you have a usable capacity of just 30-35% of the bank, when out cruising, this means that you are carrying around 65-70% of that weight in unusable “dead lead” capacity. This 400Ah LFP bank weighs 130 pounds & 80% of it is easily usable. This means just 20% of it not easily usable or you simply don’t want to use it for best longevity. As a result, we carry around a measly 26 pounds of unusable battery on our 36 footer..

Lets go back to usable capacity for a moment. If we want to equal the usable capacity of this 400Ah LFP bank in lead, we would need 8 GC2 6V golf cart batteries or approx 900Ah’s. 35% of 900Ah is a usable capacity of 315Ah’s. 80% of the 400Ah LFP bank is a usable capacity or 320 Ah’s. The 900Ah lead bank weighs 520 pounds. If you use just 35% of that bank then you are hauling around 338 pounds of “dead lead” or 338 pounds of unusable capacity.. Twenty six pounds of unused LFP or 338 pounds of “dead lead”..?? Points to ponder…

*STEADY VOLTAGE:
LFP banks have a very strong & flat charge & discharge curve with a very steep & fast rise or drop at either end. These ends are called the “knee’s”. LFP’s will maintain voltages well above that of any fully charged lead acid bank, and remain very close to their 3.3VPC / 13.2V nominal voltage level, and hold quite steady voltages with little change almost all the way to 80% DOD. They will maintain a very tight voltage range even under “normal” house loads. Espar heaters, refrigeration, watermakers etc. will all perform better. Equipment likes higher voltages. Even bilge pumps will pump more water. Voltage sag that can drop out electronics during bow thruster or windlass use is almost entirely eliminated.
*CHARGING EFFICIENCY:
Charge efficiency is also referred to as the Coulombic efficiency. These batteries are as near 100% efficient as I have ever seen on my test bench. Take 200Ah’s out and put 200 Ah’s back in and you hit the voltage and net accepted current at almost the exact same Ah’s out to Ah’s in. Until LFP I had never witnessed anything like this, even with the best AGM’s. Lead acid ranges from 70% to as high as 90% +/- efficient but you still need to put back in 10-30% more than you took out, and this is with “healthy” lead acid batteries. As they sulfate the charge efficiency or Coulombic efficiency gets even worse.
*NO NEED TO RECHARGE TO 100% SOC:
We know the Achilles heel of lead is sulfation and in order to fight off sulfation we need to charge them to 100% SOC as often as possible. This proves very difficult for many boaters and cruisers unless your boat resides at a dock after each sail or sits on a mooring with an adequate solar system. LFP batteries do not need to get back to 100% SOC so, FOGEDABOUTIT…….! This is a major win for LFP. When we come back from a weekend on the water, and our battery is at 50% SOC, I DON’T CARE!!!! I shut down the boat, and the solar and go home. LFP batteries actually prefer to sit at 50-60% SOC rather than at 90-100%.. As I said earlier this is a mental paradigm shift we need to overcome in our human behavior/thinking around our batteries…
* SULFATION, WHAT’S THAT?:
Sulfation is by far and away the cancer and #1 killer of lead acid batteries. These batteries do not sulfate, no cancer, so there is no need or worry to constantly get back to 100% SOC before you leave your boat. LFP batteries actually prefer to be left at mid range SOC rather than full. Enjoy that sail home, WITHOUT THE MOTOR!!!
*SAFE Li TECHNOLOGY:
Without question LFP is the safest of the Li battery formats. Many argue, and these arguments have certainly been well made, LiFePO4 is as safe or safer than lead acid. ALL BATTERIES ARE DANGEROUS, let us not forget that. As Li goes LiFePO4 is currently the safest. Remember we are surrounded every day by far more volatile Li technologies in computers, iPads, iPods, tablets, video games, cell phones and even cordless tools. LFP is less energy dense than other more volatile Li formats, but when compared to lead acid everything looks energy dense. We have no need on boats for “Dreamliner” level energy density, thus we use the considerably safer LiFePO4/LFP technology not LiCoO2 like Boeing chose.. If you believe LiCoO2 & LiFePO4 batteries are the same PLEASE STOP READING HERE and go back & hug your lead acid batteries…..(grin)”
Thx…

 

Cruisers forum topic, at this writing 326 pages and growing, a topic on using LiFePo4’s as a house bank.  Kinda WOW for using the web as a crowd sourced wealth of information… taking it as every web thing with a grain of salt …

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/lifepo4-batteries-discussion-thread-for-those-using-them-as-house-banks-65069.html

Here is a fellow who has pondered the problem some, maybe too much “some”:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dqmt5q70zm56ask/Field%20Trip%20Design%201%20Contactorsv3.pdf?dl=0

A links for charging recommendations for the LiFePo4’s:

http://www.powerstream.com/li.htm

Here is link to the alibaba site for the EWT manufacturer and the info (what there is) on the 12v 100Ah LiFePo4 battery module we are getting:

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/22650-LiFePO4-12v-100AH-battery-pack_60271107964.html?spm=a2700.7724838.30.291.qtPOXZ

Here is link to site selling the BMS (Battery Management System) shown in the photo on the above site, Model Number is  PCM-L04S50-674, looks like the is the BMS in our EWT 100 Ah batteries:

http://www.quawin.com/?c=products&t=v&vid=4566593500084f71870c9bc87a09d945

And a link to purchasing the BMS via alibaba  at $0.6 USD per unit???:

http://szayaa8605.en.made-in-china.com/product/KXpmlRocJrhJ/China-PCM-for-4s-Li-ion-Li-Polymer-LiFePO4-Battery-Pack.html

BMS Specifications from above site:

Model: PCM-L04S50-674
No  Test   item Lifepo4 Li-ion/Li-polymer
1 Voltage Charging voltage DC 14.6VCC/CV
(3.65V/cell)
DC:16.8V CC/CV
(4.2V/cell)
Balance voltage for single cell 3.65V±0.025V 4.20V±0.025V
2 Current Balance current for single cell 36/72±10mA 42/84±10mA
Current consumption for single cell ≤20μA ≤20μA
Max. continuous charging current 50A 50A
Max. cont. discharging current 50A 50A
3 Over charge
protection
(single cell)
Over charge detection voltage 3.9V±0.025V (optional) 4.35±0.025V (optional)
Over charge detection delay time 0.5-2.0S 0.5-2.0S
Over charge release voltage 3.8±0.025V 4.15 ±0.05V
4 Over discharge
protection
(single cell)
Over discharge detection voltage 2.0±0.05V

(optional)

3.0±0.05V

(optional)

Over discharge detection delay time 100~300mS 100~300mS
Over discharge release voltage 1.9±0.1V 3.1±0.1V
5 Over current
protection
Over current detection voltage 0.06~0.6V 0.06~0.6V
Over current detection current 80~500A (can adjust) 80~500A (can adjust)
Detection delay time 5-20ms 5-20ms
Release condition Cut load, Cut load,
6 Short
protection
Detection condition Exterior short circuit
Detection delay time 200~500us
Release condition charge up
7 Resistance Protection  circuitry ≤50mΩ
8 Temperature Operating Temperature Range -40~+85℃
Storage Temperature Range -40~+125℃
9 Dimension L130*W70*T13mm
 So it looks like the batteries are covered for abuse, we are looking into temperature monitoring for our alternator and for the battery compartment too…
Misc info:
The Yanmar 3.15″ mount is found (of course) on Yanmar as well as Mercruiser, Lehman, Perkins-Sabre and Hitachi equipped engines.  3.15″ is the internal dimension between the two mounting feet.
Here is our existing Iskre Letrika AAK4855 120 Amp 12v internally regulated alternator:
Image result for alternator AAK4855  

 

Description:-  Alternators Iskra Letrika

Product Alternator
Aftermarket P/N IA1196
Voltage 14 V
Current 175 A
OEM P/N 11.204.252  Letrika
Description AAN8164
Notes Dust-proof

Cross References

Manufacturer Manufacturer P/N
BETA MARINE 200-05261

Description:-

Product Alternator
Aftermarket P/N IA1542
Voltage 14 V
Current 120 A
OEM P/N 11.204.479
Description AAK4855
Notes Dust-proof

https://www.emarineinc.com/categories/Series-23-Alternators

http://www.bowest.com.au/library/theorems.html   woohoo techie’s

https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-dc-dc-converters-12v-24v-48v-110v

http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/split-charging.html

http://www.batteryspace.com/lifepo4rechargeablesinglecells1c-30crate.aspx

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